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Borneo - Exotic Birds and WildlifeGuide: Richard Knapton & local guide
The island of Borneo, once a land of the mythical and mystical, has rapidly become one of the most exciting and richest destinations for wildlife. There are still vast tracts of forest remaining, in spite of widespread logging and clearings, supporting a wonderful and truly exotic array of animals and plants. Broadbills and barbets, hornbills and trogons, bee-eaters and bristleheads, as well as flying foxes, tree shrews and monkeys including the bizarre Proboscis Monkey and, of course, Orang-utan. Rising out of the lowland rainforests is the superb and spectacular Mount Kinabalu, over 4000 metres to its bare granite summit, the highest peak between the Himalayas and New Guinea, and an area of a high degree of endemism – birds with names like wren-babblers, stubtails, blackeyes and Friendly Bush Warbler. We start our journey in the modern city of Kota Kinabalu, where we encounter lowland coastal species, and then travel to the superb Tabin Wildlife Refuge, one of the most diverse and rich wildlife areas on the planet. We then move to a rainforest lodge for boatrides along the Kinabatangan River for kingfishers, darters, storks and Proboscis Monkeys. We will see a huge number of species! A trip to Sepilok for Orang-utans and a surprisingly rich avifauna is followed by several days at Mount Kinabalu, with its unique and exciting fauna and flora. A visit to Borneo is a marvelous and unforgettable experience. Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive Kota Kinabalu Arrive in Kota Kinabalu where our tour starts with a welcome dinner. Kota Kinabalu is the new name of Jesselton, named after Sir Charles Jessel, a director of the British North Borneo Chartered Company. The town was established in 1897 when the small British settlement was moved from Gaya Island to the mainland after it was razed by Mat Salleh, the local native chief. Jesselton was almost completely destroyed during World War II save for three buildings. Today, this city of over 200,000 people of various ethnic groups is completely transformed. Kota Kinabalu (KK) is the entry point to the state of Sabah, known as the “Land Below the Wind” (actually below the typhoon belt). KK’s coastal location and mountain backdrop make this one of the most spectacularly set cities in the region. When skies are clear the most prominent feature is the massive Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea. Time permitting, we may check mudflats at a wetland near the airport where Greater and Lesser Sandplovers, Gray-tailed Tattler and Red-necked Stint, and possibly wintering (and globally threatened) Chinese Egrets occur. Around our hotel, we sample some common Bornean birds - Spotted and Zebra Doves, Glossy Swiftlet, House Swift, Pacific Swallow, Yellow-vented Bulbul, White-breasted Wood Swallow, Asian Glossy Starling and Eurasian Tree Sparrow. Night at Kota Kinabalu Hotel. Day 2 - Kota Kinabalu to Tabin Wildlife Reserve Today we fly to Lahad Datu and transfer to the Tabin Wildlife Reserve.The largest reserve in Sabah, Tabin consists of 120,500 hectares of diverse rainforest located on the Dent Peninsula on the eastern coast of Sabah, and is a breeding ground for Sumatran Rhinoceros, Tembadau (Wild Cattle) and Borneo Pygmy Elephant. Tabin is dominated by secondary rainforest with a core of primary forest. On arrival at the resort, after settling into our rooms, we have opportunities for finding species close to the resort; sunbirds, Ashy Tailorbird, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Stork-billed and Black-backed Kingfishers and the loudly trumpeting Rhinoceros Hornbill. Night at Tabin Wildlife Resort. Day 3 - 5 – Tabin Wildlife Reserve The road leading to primary forest is excellent for Asian Paradise Flycatcher, White-crowned Shama, Thick-billed, Long-billed and Gray-breasted Spiderhunters, Yellow-rumped and Orange-bellied Flowerpeckers, Gray-streaked Flycatcher, Purple-throated and Plain Sunbirds, Black-naped Monarch, Olive-backed Woodpecker, Red-naped and Scarlet-rumped Trogons, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Crested Goshawk, Storm’s Stork and the tiny endemic raptor, White-fronted Falconet. Tabin is particularly good for hornbills, eight species of them, broadbills, babblers and raptors, and we have a good chance at finding scarce endemics such as the bizarre Bornean Bristlehead, Black and crimson, Blue-headed and Blue-banded Pittas, Dusky Munia, Black-throated and Bornean Wren-babblers and, with extreme luck, Bulwer’s Pheasant. We’ll look for Great Argus Pheasant, the world’s largest and spectacularly plumaged pheasant. Chestnut-necklaced Partridge is a shy reclusive bird which we hope to find, along with Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle, up to three species of pittas including the magnificent Blue-headed and stunning Banded Pittas, and a host of tit-babblers, broadbills, an array of woodpeckers, barbets, minivets, fantails, cuckoos, trogons, and nearly all of Borneo’s hornbills. Endemics here include the bizarre and still mysterious Bornean Bristlehead, as well as White-crowned Shama, Pygmy White-eye, Bornean and Black-throated Wren-Babblers. The region is also rich in mammals; in the Reserve there are over 70 species, including Orang-utan, elephant and rhinoceros, along with Sambar and Mouse Deer, Bearded Pig, Bornean Gibbon, Red Leaf Monkey, Malayan Flying Fox, several species of civet, flying squirrels, Silver Langur, Pig-tailed and Long-tailed Macaques. One of the natural attractions is the Lipad Mud Volcano, which contains highly mineral rich mud which attracts many animals. Here, from an observation tower, it is possible to see many birds, monkeys and possibly elephants. A Night Drive Safari could turn up Bearded Pigs and flying foxes, and with luck such prizes as Buffy Fish Owl and Brown Wood Owl, Greater Mouse-Deer, Sambar Deer, Slow Loris or a Leopard Cat. Nights at Tabin Wildlife Resort. Day 6 – Tabin Wildlife Refuge to Bilit Rainforest Lodge, near Sukau After breakfast, we leave the resort, and head toward the Bilit Rainforest Lodge for a three night stay. Bilit Rainforest Lodge is situated along the Kinabatangan River, 126km from Sandakan. The lodge is build appropriately from local hard-wood material and designed to blend into natural surroundings. Night at Bilit Rainforest Lodge. Days 7 - 8 – Bilit Rainforest Lodge The Kinabatangan River at 560 km long and with a catchment area estimated at 16,800 square kilometers is Sabah’s longest river. The greatest concentration of wildlife in Malaysia, and all of Borneo, can be found along the lower reaches of the Kinabatangan River. The main river is lined with forest on fertile alluvial terraces. Behind these are extensive, low-lying seasonally flooded forested swamps which are usually water logged and Dry Dipterocarp Forest & Mangroves. Within the swamps, scattered lakes and small hills dot the landscape. Various wildlife species abound here, including elephants and Orang-utans.The proboscis monkey, a species confined to Borneo, is most readily seen and particularly abundant in the mangrove forests of the lower Kinabatangan. They live in groups of up to twenty or more, and these placid vegetarians can be found among the mangrove forests along the river banks, late afternoon before they retire for the night, or early in the morning, before they move off in search of food. On one day, in the early morning, we travel upriver and visit one of the oxbow lakes teeming with bird life. Possibilities here include Stork-billed and Blue-eared Kingfishers, huge Great Slaty Woodpeckers, Black-and-red Broadbill, White-chested Babbler, the rare and sought-after Storm’s Stork, Lesser and Gray-headed Fish-Eagles, Jerdon’s Baza, three species of blue flycatchers, Oriental Darter, and several barbets and hornbills. We could also encounter the enigmatic Bornean Ground-Cuckoo. In the afternoon, we venture on another river cruise down the Menanggul River and along the Kinabatangan River, returning to the lodge at dusk. On another day we visit the famous Gomantong Caves. This huge cave system in a limestone outcrop supports enormous numbers of swiftlets and bats. The ecosystem here is one of constant darkness with the various animals having adapted to such conditions. The main cave is the nesting area for four species of swiftlets, identifiable by their noticeably differing nest structures. At dusk, huge numbers of bats emerge from the caves and several Bat Hawks are usually here attempting to catch them. The reserve for the caves is also rich in birdlife and we should find a good selection of forest birds here. Nights at Bilit Rainforest Lodge. Day 9 – By road to Sepilok After breakfast we transfer to the Sepilok Nature Resort about 24 km from the city of Sandakan. Night at Sepilok Nature Resort. Day 10 – Sepilok to Kota Kinabalu National Park We have an early morning bird walk followed by a morning visit to the Sepilok Rehabilitation center. Sepilok is an old Forest Reserve, about 43 square kilometers in area, which served as a timber production area in the early 1900s before it was gazetted as a forest reserve in 1931. Highly selective logging occurred until the mid-1950s, when it was prohibited in 1956. Research on Orang-utan began in the 1930s, and the Orang-utan rehabilitation program started in 1964. The centre is aimed at returning orphaned and captive Orang-utan to the wild. Its rich tropical rainforest is a good example of lowland primary forests with over 277 different species of birds and at least 300 types of trees. After our visit to Sepilok, we drive to Kinabalu National Park. Covering an area of 754 square kilometers, Kinabalu Park is one of the greatest attractions of Sabah. At 4,101 m, Mount Kinabalu is Borneo's highest peak. Vegetation types range from the rich lowland dipterocarp zone through the montane oak, rhododendron, and conifer forests to the alpine meadow plants and stunted bushes of the summit zone. There are some 1,500 species of orchids, 26 species of rhododendrons, 9 species of pitcher plants, 60 species of oak and chestnut trees as well as 2 species of Rafflesia. Around the Park Headquarters are several easy, graded trails which lead through montane forests, follow valleys and ridges, and lead to scenic viewpoints and clear mountain streams. The Mountain Garden, situated near the Park Administration Office, has an exotic collection of orchids and other mountain plants including rhododendrons, pitcher plants and kerosene plants. Night in Kinabalu Rose Cabins.
Days 11 - 13 – Kinabalu Park & Poring We have three days to explore this marvelous area. The imposing granite massif of Mount Kinabalu towers above the lowland rainforest and cultivated areas. The summit is generally visible in the early morning, allowing stunning views, but thereafter is frequently cloaked in mist. Mount Kinabalu is a naturalist’s paradise, and the park is an excellent location to view some of Borneo’s montane bird life. We will see a good range of lowland and upland species confined to areas above 1500m. Many of these montane species are endemic to Borneo. We look for Sunda Cuckoo-shrike, Whitehead’s Trogon, Temminck’s Sunbird, Short-tailed Magpie, Gray-throated Babbler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Ashy and Hair-crested Drongos, and Mountain Leaf-Warbler, and we also target Kinabalu’s local specialties such as Whitehead’s Broadbill, Mountain Serpent-Eagle, Red-breasted and Crimson-headed Partridges, Bornean Whistler, Mountain Wren-Babbler, Black-sided Flowerpecker and Bornean Stubtail. In addition our walks may turn up mammals such as the remarkable Mountain Treeshrew and several species of squirrels including pygmy-squirrels. Weather permitting, we have an option to start along the steep summit trail into the upper montane zone. We will hopefully not have to go too far before we find Friendly Bush Warbler, a bird which has recently not lived up to its name, as well as Flavescent Bulbul, Sunda Bush Warbler and Mountain Black-eye. An excursion after dark near our chalets should allow us to hear the reclusive Mountain Scops Owl. Whilst based at Kinabalu we may make an excursion to Poring Hot Springs, situated at lower altitudes near the foot of the mountain. The hot sulphur springs were developed by the Japanese in the Second World War and are now a popular tourist attraction. They are surrounded by lowland rainforest which harbours a good range of birds not found at higher altitudes on the mountain, including Rufous and Maroon Woodpeckers, Red-eyed, Black-headed, Scaly-breasted and Streaked Bulbuls, Moustached Babbler, Oriental Magpie-Robin (of a distinctive near-black form), Everett’s White-eye, Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, and perhaps also the enigmatic Bornean Spiderhunter. Nights in Kinabalu Rose Cabins. Day 14 – Rafflesia Forest Reserve and return to Kota Kinabalu Today we make an early start and head off for the Rafflesia Forest Reserve situated in the Crocker Range. This mid-elevation forestedarea holds several species which are particularly difficult to find – the endemic Bornean and Mountain Barbets, Bare-headed Laughingthrush, Black-breasted Fruit-hunter, Blue-winged Leafbird, Ashy and Black-crested Bulbuls, and Whitehead’s Spiderhunter. We also look for flowering Rafflesia, the largest flower on earth! We then return to Kota Kinabalu. Overnight in Kota Kinabalu. Day 15 – Departure Our tour ends after breakfast for our flights home, or you can connect to our Papua New Guinea tour with a flight to Singapore and a direct flight from there to Port Moresby. This tour can also be combined with the Peninsular Malaysia tour What to expect: Be prepared for hot, humid and sunny weather at low altitudes, with showers in the afternoon. It is recommended to take a light rain-jacket or poncho, although we try to avoid birding in any rain worse than a light drizzle. It will likely be cool at higher elevations on Mount Kinabalu. We usually have early breakfasts and some before-breakfast birding since it is best to begin birding at daybreak. Some lunches will be picnic style to maximize our time in the field. Walking conditions will be generally easy to moderate; there is a fairly arduous optional walk on Mount Kinabalu, as we try for some higher elevational species. Trails anywhere may be muddy depending on how recently it has rained. Bring mosquito repellent and/or mosquito-proof clothing because bugs can be a problem, especially at low elevations in moist humid conditions. Leeches can be a nuisance, but can usually be deterred with insect repellant. You will need to bring a hat and sunblock, especially on the boat trips along the Kinabatangan River. In the evenings we usually eat at the hotel or lodge where we are staying and review the list of birds and other wildlife that we have encountered, as well as discuss the following day’s activities. Highlights:
Featured Birds & Other Wildlife:
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Itinerary: Duration: 15 days Limit: 12 Date: September 9 - 23, 2013 Start: Kota Kinabalu, Borneo End: Kota Kinabalu, Borneo Price: TBA – please ask for ballpark costs – the prices should be competitive Price_Includes: One internal flight included Excellent high-quality hotels and lodges All meals included Boatrides along Kinabatangan River Price_Excludes: Flights Insurance Tips Other personal expenses
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